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In Part One, I went over the basics about my trip to Kenya. Part Two discussed the animals I saw and the parks I visited. What I haven’t yet had the chance to properly mention are the people.

Our friend Lucki, a Kenyan by birth, was the person who originally suggested the trip to Kenya. We already knew he was pretty awesome. Throughout the voyage he proved to be patient, knowledgeable, concerned (both for our safety and enjoyment), resourceful… Basically, he was the perfect guide and companion. Just one example of his kindness occurred when we went camping. Lucki stayed up all night to keep the fire lit, in order to ward off animals. We had been told that a herd of elephants was nearby, and didn’t particularly fancy the idea of being trampled by them in the middle of the night. Lucki wouldn’t have it that we stay up to assist.

Lucki, Ben and I in front of a sweeping view of the Rift Valley

During the trip, Lucki introduced us to numerous members of his family. There were plenty of people to meet, as he is one of 10 children. As I mentioned in Part One, we spent the first week with Lucki’s wife and son, and the rest of the journey with his brother, Ben. We also had the opportunity to meet another of his brothers, Job, two sisters (Maureen and Alice), various friends, his Auntie Beth and another aunt, Pastor Eunice.

Ben is also a pastor, and on one of our last nights in Nairobi he invited us to a local church to see him preach. It’s been years since I last attended church, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. As soon as we entered I felt immersed in the whole experience – the sound system boomed, the congregation danced and sang along with the women singing at the pulpit (one of them was Maureen). Not the typically sombre Christian service I was accustomed to.

While I don’t see myself racing back to a church anytime soon, I genuinely enjoyed the experience. Furthermore, the topic of Ben’s sermon was ‘New Beginnings’ – a theme relevant to me at the moment. Without recognising all of the religious references, I felt motivated and inspired by Ben’s words.

Jim and I with Auntie Beth

Another favourite moment of the trip was our visit to Auntie Beth’s home in Naroc. Auntie Beth’s husband (who passed away several years ago) was Maasai. According to Maasai tradition, a goat is killed for important events or when visitors come to the home. The idea is then to eat as much of the meat as possible in one sitting (with little in the way of accompaniments), and the guests must take away whatever is left over. Thankfully, Lucki warned Auntie Beth that I’m vegetarian, plus we weren’t able to stay long – nowhere near enough time to eat an entire goat. She prepared two other delicious (non-meat) dishes for us instead. I was relieved to have saved a goat’s life, even if just for the moment. Beth was so kind and welcoming to us. She promised that when we return, she’ll prepare traditional Maasai robes and jewellery for us to wear.

We took her various provisions along with us as a gift. Whereas in Western culture we might take flowers or a bottle of wine to someone’s home, everyday products such as coffee, tea, and sugar are more appreciated in Kenya. Lucki also left some of his clothing for family members.

Another custom I found unusual – in terms of my Western culture – was the fact that Pastor Eunice handed Jim and I a 100 shilling note upon leaving our hotel after her visit. We tried to refuse, but Lucki explained that it’s a symbolic gesture – when people visit your home (or, in our case, country), you give them a small gift to help them pay for the bus ride home.

I was struck by the friendliness of the Kenyan people. We visited many villages off the beaten track and stayed in modest Kenyan hotels – clearly places where large tour groups do not go – and were well-received each time. While we felt a lot of eyes on us as the only white-skinned people in the area, it was out of curiosity and clearly without malice.

Something else that we found a little unnerving at the beginning of the trip is that as people pass, they look you straight in the eye. Having spent two years living in Paris, I can tell you that people there avoid eye contact at all costs. A smile is something even rarer. However in Kenya, people smile, greet you and sometimes even shake your hand as you pass. We learnt the Swahili greetings ‘jambo’ and ‘sasa’ and pronounced them as best we could – sometimes to other’s amusement. Wherever we went, Lucki would greet and speak at length to gardeners, hotel staff, guards…

Several images of Kenya will always stay with me: the women walking along the roadside carrying enormous bundles on their heads, the men using donkeys and carts, or bicycles; children playing with a broken wheel, cardboard – what could be considered rubbish – as though it were a sparkling new toy; people by the roadside brandishing sugar cane stalks, the daily newspaper, soft drinks, rabbits, puppies, kittens, any product imaginable – all for sale; the quiet way of the Kenyan wait staff, with their unhurried, measured movements.

Me with my Kenyan 'family' - Ben and Lucki - at Lake Bogoria

As we bade our farewells to Ben and Lucki at the airport, Ben reminded us that we are welcome in Kenya anytime. It was the second or third time that somebody told us Kenya is now our second home. Lucki told us that the trip was “a gift” for him. What a beautiful ending to a refreshing, intense and rewarding journey that I will never forget.

We hope to welcome our Kenyan friends in Australia someday soon.

Lucki is in the process of setting up his own tour business. He’s currently based in Uganda and I believe he plans to lead guided tours there and in Kenya. If you’re interested, please leave a comment below and I’ll happily provide you with his contact details.

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